Kyoto is home to countless cafés, from traditional machiya townhouses to retro Showa-style coffee shops and sleek minimalist spaces, each boasting its own distinct charm.
But few are as storied as Francois Cafe (also known as Salon de thé FRANCOIS), a place that seamlessly blends nostalgia with elegance, embodying the spirit of old Kyoto and the romance of a European salon.
Established in 1934, this timeless café is tucked away in a narrow alley just off Shijo Kawaramachi, Kyoto’s bustling downtown district. We first stumbled upon it while strolling along Kiyamachi Street. Its refined façade immediately caught our eye—quiet, understated, yet consistently drawing a steady stream of visitors.
Step through the door and you’re transported into what truly feels like a vintage European salon: white vaulted ceilings, red velvet chairs, spiral columns, stained-glass windows, and a quietly smiling Mona Lisa watching over you. The entire space seems to whisper: “Take your time. Sit down. Have a cup of coffee.”
In 2003, Francois Cafe made history by becoming the very first café in Japan to be designated a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property, officially making the building a part of Kyoto’s living history.
History, Art, and the Cultural Heart of Kyoto
The name Francois (フランソア) comes from Jean-François Millet, the French painter known for his depictions of peasant life. Inside the café, you’ll find reproductions of his works like The Sower (1850) and The Gleaners (1857), alongside classics like Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa (c. 1503–1506), Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring (c. 1665), and Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus (c. 1484–1486). The walls resemble a miniature art salon.
Masakazu Tachino, the founder, was an intellectual and lover of the arts. Amidst turbulent times, he envisioned the café as a sanctuary where people could converse, share ideas—or simply sit in silence. The seating is arranged in a gentle horseshoe layout, offering cozy corners whether by the window or tucked into a secluded nook. The vaulted ceiling is said to evoke the grand banquet halls of luxury ocean liners.
Don’t miss the vintage Paris city map on the wall. It’s said to have been there since the café first opened in 1934, quietly witnessing the youth of generations of Kyoto locals.
One delightful detail: In 1947, a small bookstore named Mire Bookstore (ミレー書房) opened on the café’s south side, specializing in Western and philosophy books. Many students and professors from Kyoto University and Doshisha University would frequent the spot—browsing shelves, sipping coffee, and discussing big ideas.
The bookstore later became independent and was renamed San-gatsu Shobo (“March Bookstore”), a beloved Kyoto independent bookstore that sadly closed its doors in 2021. For countless writers and readers, it remains a cherished memory.
It’s said that renowned figures like Tsuguharu Fujita and Osamu Dazai once spent time here, deep in conversation. The café also makes appearances in the novels of Harumi Setouchi and Nobara Takemoto, authors who captured its unique presence in Kyoto’s literary landscape.
You might be curious about the names mentioned earlier:
Tsuguharu Fujita was a celebrated Japanese painter active in Paris, famous for his milky-white nudes and East-meets-West style. He remains one of the few Japanese artists to break into the European art scene.
Osamu Dazai was a leading novelist of the Showa era, known for his dark, introspective themes of alienation and self-destruction. His best-known works include No Longer Human (1948) and The Setting Sun (1947).
Harumi Setouchi later became a Buddhist nun under the name Jakuchō. She was known for writing about love, faith, and women’s struggles. Notable works include The End of Summer (1963) and her modern Japanese translation of The Tale of Genji (1998).
Nobara Takemoto is renowned for his gothic lolita and subculture fiction, often set in Kyoto. His cult classic Kamikaze Girls (2002) was adapted into a film and became a hit with younger audiences.
The café has also served as a filming location for acclaimed movies like The Actress (1997) and Bit Players (2000). It’s said that Kaneto Shindo, a prominent director and screenwriter, once visited here with Nobuko Otowa, a celebrated actress. a duo widely regarded as a legendary couple in Japanese cinema.
Menu at Francois Cafe
Whether you’re in the mood for a nostalgic Showa-style custard pudding, a delicate slice of pear tart, or simply a quiet cup of coffee, Francois Cafe offers a selection of desserts and drinks crafted with a sense of calm and care. Here’s a look at their current offerings:
| Item | Description | Price (¥) |
|---|---|---|
| Cake Set | Your choice of cake + coffee or tea | 1,350 |
| Pudding Set | Signature Showa custard pudding + coffee or tea | 1,550 |
| Today’s Cake | Pear tart, lemon tart, cheesecake, etc. | Approx. 700 |
| Showa Custard Pudding | À la carte | 900 |
| Vanilla Ice Cream | Simple and creamy | 850 |
| Coffee Jelly | Served with whipped cream | 950 |
| Toast Selection | Butter, jam, or cinnamon sugar (requires drink order) | 550–650 |
| Sandwiches | Egg, veggie, or ham with salad | 950–1,100 |
| Black Coffee / Americano | Classic brew | 700 |
| Café au Lait | Served with steamed milk | 800 |
| Vienna Coffee | Topped with whipped cream | 900 |
| Brandy Coffee | With Hennessy | 1,650 |
| Coffee Float | With vanilla ice cream | 1,100 |
| Tea Selection | Milk tea, Royal milk tea, Apple tea (Fortnum & Mason), Whiskey tea | 700–850 |
| Juices | Kochi yuzu, Yamagata pear, Nagano grape | 800–900 |
| Cocoa / Milk | Hot, iced, or topped cocoa; milk-based drinks | 750–850 |
| Soft Drinks | Ginger ale, yuzu soda, ice cream soda | 800–900 |
| Beer | Yebisu Premium, Guinness Stout | 900–1,100 |
| Brandy / Whiskey | Hennessy V.S, Old Parr 12 Years, etc. | 1,100–1,300 |
※ Cash only. No reservations are accepted. Each guest is required to order at least one item. No smoking throughout the café. Seating limited to about 2 hours during peak times.
Prices listed are current as of 2025. Menu items and pricing may vary—please check the official Francois Cafe menu here for the most up-to-date information.
Pear Tart, Showa Pudding, and Coffee: A Must-Try Trio
Beyond its architectural beauty, nostalgic charm, and rich history, Francois Cafe is also known for its highly praised desserts.
On our first visit, we tried their French-style pear tart. The caramelized pears were soft, fragrant, and gently sweetened with a hint of caramel. They practically melted in our mouths. The tart crust was crisp and buttery—exactly the kind of pastry we love.
Another time, we met up with friends and ordered their famous Showa-style pudding. With its rich egg flavor and bittersweet caramel, each bite was comforting. One sip of hot coffee alongside it, and all the travel fatigue seemed to melt away.
Francois Cafe serves coffee in a classic, old-school style—starting with basic black coffee and café au lait. If you're in the mood for something nostalgic, try their Vienna coffee topped with whipped cream, a beloved choice from the Showa era.
If you’ve still got room, their cheesecake or sandwiches are also excellent options. It’s the kind of place where you can truly relax and let time slow down.
The Warmth in the Details: Music and Atmosphere
To complement its artistic, nostalgic ambiance, the café frequently plays classical music—featuring composers like Beethoven, Mozart, Schubert, and similar masters.
In the past, they used to post a daily playlist at the entrance, listing which composer would be featured that day. While that tradition has faded, many longtime patrons fondly recall those music-filled days.
All in all, this is a classically styled café with a unique atmosphere and rich backstory.
There’s no Wi-Fi, allowing you to rest your thoughts, journal your trip, listen to the music, gaze out the window, or simply daydream. If you visit during spring, you’ll find the entrance framed by blooming cherry blossoms and the gentle flow of the Takase River just steps away.
From Vintage Chairs to Timeless Memories
- Francois Cafe temporarily closed during World War II and operated under the name Miyako Sabou (都茶房). After the war, founder Masakazu Tachino reopened it with the aspiration of creating a peaceful space for intellectual exchange—far beyond just coffee.
- In the 1930s, as new cultural movements blossomed in Kyoto, the café became a gathering spot for students, artists, and professors—a kind of mini salon of its era.
- The café’s wrought iron railings and signage are said to blend the grace of Kyoto’s geisha districts with European classical aesthetics. They’ve stood untouched since the Showa period, as if even time dares not disturb them.
- Look up when you enter—the ceiling’s dome and murals were designed by Italian artist Benvenni and painted by local artisans. The inspiration reportedly came from grand ballrooms aboard luxury cruise ships.
- Several wooden features and red velvet chairs date back to the original 1934 opening. Though carefully restored over the years, much of the café’s Showa-era appearance remains intact.
- In earlier days, there was a letter exchange box where students from Kyoto universities would leave notes and share secrets. It was affectionately known as the “Mailbox of the Heart.”
- Students and professors from Kyoto University and Doshisha University frequently came to discuss philosophy, literature, and politics. Over time, the café earned its title as Kyoto’s cultural coffee salon.
- In 1947, the bookstore Mire Bookstore next door became independent and was renamed San-gatsu Shobo. It remained a beloved intellectual space in Kyoto until its closure in 2021.
Is Francois Cafe Worth a Special Trip? Or Is a Detour Enough?
Many people ask if Francois Cafe is worth going out of your way for. To me, it absolutely is. That said, its location is incredibly convenient—right in the heart of Shijo Kawaramachi, just a few steps from Takase River and Kiyamachi Street.
In fact, if you're visiting Kyoto, you’re bound to pass by this area anyway. No detour is necessary. Even if you don’t plan to go, chances are you’ll somehow end up near it.
So instead of debating whether it’s “worth a special trip,” why not simply step inside when you’re in the neighborhood—whether you're strolling, shopping, or waiting for someone? And when you finally settle into one of those red velvet chairs, you may feel like this corner of Kyoto has been waiting for you all along.
Cafe Information
| Shop Info｜Francois Cafe（フランソア喫茶室） | |
|---|---|
| Address | 184 Sendōchō, Shimo-Kiyamachi-dori, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto |
| Phone | 075-351-4042 |
| Opening Hours |
Daily｜10:00 AM – 10:00 PM Last food order: 8:00 PM Last drink or cake order: 9:30 PM |
| Closed | Open year-round（closed December 31 – January 2） |
| Access | Just steps from Shijo Kawaramachi bus stop or Kyoto-Kawaramachi Station (Exit 1B) |
| Official Website | https://francois1934.com/ |
| Features |
National Registered Tangible Cultural Property, Italian baroque interior, classical music ambiance Signature desserts: pear tart, pudding Non-smoking, cash only, no reservations, no Wi-Fi |