Sometimes the best trips are the ones you don’t plan — you just go.
One of the perks of living in Kyoto is how close you are to nature. One sunny, cloudless Saturday afternoon in autumn, staying indoors felt like wasting precious sunshine. On a whim, I hopped on the Eizan Electric Railway and transferred to the Hiei-zan Cable Car — just like that, I was off for a spontaneous half-day trip to Mount Hiei. In under an hour, the city noise was long gone, replaced by crisp mountain air, lush greenery, and the stunning view of Lake Biwa sparkling below. The hills were brushed with early autumn colors — proof that sometimes the simplest escapes become the most memorable.
Mount Hiei is Kyoto’s backyard escape. Straddling Kyoto and Shiga prefectures, it’s been a sacred site for Japanese Buddhism for centuries. It’s home to the UNESCO World Heritage Enryaku-ji Temple, the birthplace of the Tendai sect and a major center of Buddhist culture. Keep in mind the summit can feel several degrees cooler than the city below — a welcome chill on warm days.
But Mount Hiei’s summit has more to offer than just history. From the top, Lake Biwa looks like a sapphire nestled in the mountains, its surface shimmering with changing light. The air is fresh and earthy, filled with the scent of grass and soil. There’s a powerful sense of calm — one deep breath and your stress just melts away.
One thing I really appreciate about traveling in Japan is how easy it is to access nature without a car. Whether it’s Kurama, Kibune, or Mount Hiei, you can hop on a train or bus and be surrounded by trees in no time. The mountains are always close — you can get away when you need to, and be back just as easily. Most routes accept IC cards like ICOCA or Suica, so you rarely need to buy separate tickets.
How to Get to Mount Hiei: Two Main Routes
The two most common ways to reach Mount Hiei are by taking the Eizan Electric Railway and transferring to the Hiei-zan Cable Car, or taking the subway and bus combo. Which route you choose depends on where you’re staying in Kyoto.
Top Pick: Eizan Railway Route (Best for stays near Kawaramachi or Demachiyanagi)
Departure: Take the Eizan Main Line from Demachiyanagi Station. If you’re staying near Kawaramachi, take the Keihan Line to Demachiyanagi first.
Arrival: Get off at Yase-Hieizanguchi Station. The ride takes about 15 minutes.
Fare: Around 280 yen (may vary slightly by departure station).
Best part: It’s just a one-minute walk from the station to the cable car — super straightforward! Stations have clear English signs, but double-check the platform signs or ask staff if you’re unsure.
The Eizan Electric Railway is a scenic local line through Kyoto’s leafy residential areas and quiet valleys — a calm, relaxing ride. Just make sure you’re on the right branch! After Takaragaike Station, the line splits: one goes to Kibune and Kurama, the other to Yase-Hieizanguchi.
Alternative: Subway + Bus (Best for stays near Kyoto Station or Shijo-Karasuma)
Step 1: From Kyoto Station, take the Karasuma Subway Line to Kokusaikaikan Station (about 20 min, ~290 yen).
Step 2: Transfer to Kyoto Bus #17 or #19 bound for Ohara (about 14 min to “Yase Eki-mae”, ~230 yen).
Final: From “Yase Eki-mae”, it’s a short walk to the cable car station.
This route has more transfers but gives you a bit more of Kyoto’s urban scenery along the way.
Eizan Railway + Hiei-zan Cable Car: The Scenic Ride
Once you reach Yase-Hieizanguchi, you’ll need to take two cable cars to get to the top. If you plan to visit the Garden Museum Hiei or Enryaku-ji Temple, buy tickets for both segments.
🚡 First Segment: Eizan Cable
The Eizan Cable is Japan’s longest cable railway — about 9 minutes up through deep greenery. If you’re lucky, you might spot wild deer along the way; we saw two on the ascent and another lounging roadside on the way back.
Get off at Panorama Square (known as “kawarake-nage” in Japanese) to switch to the next cable car. The views here are stunning — you get a sweeping 360-degree perspective. Try the local tradition of throwing clay discs for good luck — it’s a fun ritual, especially if you believe in tossing bad luck away with a good aim!
Tip: Round-trip tickets for both segments cost 1,800 yen for adults (one-way: 900 yen). First segment only: 1,100 yen round-trip (one-way: 550 yen). Buying the full round-trip ticket is easier and better value!
🚠 Second Segment: Eizan Ropeway
From Panorama Square, transfer to the Eizan Ropeway — just three minutes to the summit. Right by the exit is the highlight: the Garden Museum Hiei, a surprisingly lush garden at 840 meters above sea level (entry ticket required).
Hidden Gem: Garden Museum Hiei
Our tickets were 1,200 yen each — totally worth it for this unexpected mountaintop oasis. The garden is filled with seasonal flowers — think tulips in spring or hydrangeas in early summer — and outdoor ceramic panels of Monet and Renoir works hidden among the blooms. Be sure to climb the Observation Tower for a 360-degree view over the Kinki region. There’s also a tiny shop, Maison de Fleur, selling souvenirs and organic cookies.
If you have time, stop at Cafe de Paris for lunch (it’s currently closed but normally open until 5 PM). We were short on time so didn’t get to try it this visit.
Other Stops if You Have Time
☞ Enryaku-ji Temple (World Heritage)
Set aside 1–2 hours to really appreciate it.
☞ Rurikoin Temple
Open only in spring and autumn: Spring (April 13–June 16), Autumn (October 1–December 15).
☞ Mount Hiei Loop Route
- Take the cable car up
- Visit Enryaku-ji
- Descend via Sakamoto Cable Car
- Return to Kyoto Station via JR Kosei Line
📍 Quick Tips Before You Go
Best seasons: Autumn foliage (late October–mid-November) or fresh greenery in early summer.
Weather: Clear days offer the best views of Lake Biwa and Kyoto’s cityscape.
Timing: The last cable car down is around 5:45 PM (varies by season) — plan ahead.
Food: There’s a small kiosk at the summit selling light meals and snacks, but packing your own snacks and water is always smart.
Mount Hiei Q&A
- Q: How much time do I need just for the Garden Museum?
- A: About 1.5 hours up, 2–3 hours in the garden (plus a coffee break) — half a day is perfect.
- Q: Is it worth going if the weather is bad?
- A: If it’s rainy, skip it. If it’s just cloudy, it’s still peaceful and the garden is lovely. Note: the cable car may stop service in severe weather, so always check ahead if rain is forecast.
- Q: Can I hike down instead of taking the cable car?
- A: Yes! Many hikers take the cable car up and walk down.
- Q: Does Enryaku-ji Temple have an entrance fee?
- A: Yes — the pass for the East, West, and Yokawa areas is 1,000 yen for adults, 300 yen for kids.
- Q: Do I need to buy cable car tickets in advance?
- A: No — buy them on-site. Expect lines during peak foliage season or weekends.
- Q: Do I have to use the cable car?
- A: Not necessarily. There are hiking trails, but they take 2–3 hours and can be steep.