If we hadn’t had an hour and a half to spare before our reservation at Atsuta Horaiken, we probably would’ve missed this discreet little café tucked away in the backstreets—Kissa Miyamachi.
From the outside, it looks just like a quaint old house—no flashy signage, just a humble lantern with the name “Miyamachi” quietly hanging by the entrance. It feels like a place meant for those in the know—a perfect example of Japan’s hidden café culture, known as kakurega.
This beautifully preserved wooden building was once a traditional Japanese inn over a century old, and it still exudes the charm of a bygone era. From the lattice doors and tiled roof to the weathered window frames, every detail quietly tells a story of its past.
At first, we hesitated at the entrance, unsure whether it was a café or perhaps an old ryokan (traditional Japanese inn). Its discreet exterior gave no clear indication. It wasn’t until two elderly women stepped outside and briefly opened the door that we caught a glimpse inside—a warm, welcoming space that immediately drew us in. We stepped through the doorway, and this hidden gem quickly became the most delightful surprise of our entire trip to Nagoya.
From Historic Ryokan to Modern Café: A Century-Old Transformation
To truly appreciate this café, you first have to know the story behind the building that houses it.
The structure was originally a well-known historical ryokan named Isekyu（伊勢久）. Dating back to the Edo period (1603–1868), it once served as a traditional inn for traveling merchants and samurai. Over the years, the building’s role evolved with the times—it later functioned as a geshukuya (a simple boarding house with meals), a men’s dormitory, and even temporarily as an elementary school classroom. Like a living diary, the house adapted to changing needs, collecting layers of history with every transformation.
During the Edo period, the Tokaido was Japan’s most vital highway, connecting Edo (modern-day Tokyo) to Kyoto, spanning about 490 kilometers (approximately 305 miles). Along its route were 53 official post towns, known collectively as the Tokaido Gojusan-tsugi (東海道五十三次), where travelers could rest, eat, and lodge. These towns weren’t just places to sleep—they also played crucial roles in logistics, communication, and regional economies.
One of the largest and most important of these was Miya-juku, located in today’s Atsuta Ward of Aichi Prefecture. Nestled along the Hori River and near the strategic ferry terminal known as Shichiri-no-Watashi, Miya-juku flourished as a bustling hub. In an 1843 survey (Tenpō 14), it was recorded that Miya-juku had as many as 247 to 248 inns, catering to feudal lords, their entourages, and weary travelers from all over Japan.
As part of the Sankin-kotai system (alternate attendance duty), Miya-juku served as an official lodging site for traveling daimyo (feudal lords). Even Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu is said to have stayed here. The area also featured several official guest residences operated by the government and reserved for high-ranking samurai and visiting dignitaries. Although Isekyu wasn’t one of these state-run estates, it was still one of Miya-juku’s largest and most prominent inns, officially designated as a Waki-Honjin—an auxiliary lodging facility for VIPs such as lords and senior retainers.
Honjin and Waki-Honjin:
A Honjin was the highest-ranked lodging in Edo-era post towns, reserved exclusively for government officials and daimyo.
A Waki-Honjin served as a backup for the Honjin, also catering to officials but of slightly lower rank. Neither was open to the general public.
After the Edo period ended and feudal lords stopped traveling the Tokaido route, Miya-juku gradually faded from prominence. Isekyu fell into disrepair and was nearly demolished—until it was fortunately acquired and restored by the Atsuta Horaiken group. Thanks to their efforts, the building was preserved and designated in 1984 as a Tangible Cultural Property of Nagoya City. Today, it remains one of the few surviving Miya-juku structures, standing as a powerful reminder of the Tokaido’s rich historical legacy.
Atsuta Horaiken Revives Isekyu
After acquiring the property, the Atsuta Horaiken group renovated it with the utmost respect for cultural preservation guidelines. The first floor now houses the café Kissa Miyamachi, while the second floor is home to the elegant kaiseki restaurant Goryori Isekyu Hōkairō. Through this thoughtful restoration, the space continues to thrive, offering visitors a unique way to connect with Nagoya’s local history and culinary heritage.
Design Highlights: Edo-Era Woodwork Meets Taisho Romanticism
Step through the doors of Kissa Miyamachi, and you’re immediately embraced by the warmth of an old Japanese home. Inside, you’ll find massive Edo-period wooden beams, thick timber door frames, stone aggregate flooring, and the classic latticed doors and windows typical of traditional ryokan architecture. These features provide both natural light and airflow while maintaining privacy. The earthen walls reveal a beautiful, aged patina, and the high ceilings lend a sense of space and calm. The staff are incredibly welcoming—and fluent in English—making it easy to feel at home.
Beyond the bar lies a thoughtfully designed open-air courtyard, a symbolic recreation of scenes from the historic Tokaido Road. Each element holds meaning: the “hand-washing stone” represents Atsuta Shrine, the stone lantern symbolizes Mi-no-Watashi ferry port, and the surrounding walls evoke the Suzuka Mountain Range. This quiet storytelling adds depth and serenity to the space while preserving its traditional layout.
The interior combines this historical charm with touches of Taisho Romanticism—a harmonious fusion of Western and Japanese aesthetics from the Taisho era. Long communal wooden tables, bentwood chairs, vintage pendant lights, framed Western-style art, and small decorative accents create a warm, layered atmosphere. Every detail is carefully curated: hand towels at each table match the tones of the tableware, the plates and cups are fine bone china from Nagoya’s century-old brand Noritake, and the cutlery is by Laguiole. Even the water glasses are etched with the café’s emblem. And in the restrooms, you’ll find Aesop hand soap—a subtle yet luxurious touch that reflects the café’s refined hospitality.
Taisho Romanticism: A design style from Japan’s Taisho era (1912–1926), known for its fusion of Western and Japanese cultural aesthetics.
Noritake porcelain: A heritage brand from Nagoya, known for its high-quality bone china—also used in Japanese diplomatic settings.
Upstairs: Goryori Isekyu Hōkairō Kaiseki Restaurant
After enjoying a relaxing time downstairs, our curiosity got the better of us—we asked the staff if we could take a peek upstairs. Although the space wasn’t officially open yet, a kind staff member offered us a private preview tour (so generous!). We took the elevator up, though there’s also a staircase just beside the entrance. Upstairs, guests are asked to change into indoor slippers before exploring. The staff gave us a warm, brief introduction and then let us roam freely.
The second floor is home to a reservation-only Japanese kaiseki restaurant, serving refined multi-course meals in a setting that mirrors the first floor’s ambiance. The interiors are elegantly crafted with exquisite woodwork, lattice windows, earthen walls, and lofty ceilings. Unlike the cozy café below, this space leans toward a more formal dining experience, adorned with massive paper lanterns, traditional bonbori lights (used during Japanese festivals), and shippo-patterned lighting fixtures. Every light element is thoughtfully chosen to reflect the theme of welcoming travelers along historic post roads.
The real showstopper? A private dining room with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Shichiri-no-Watashi ferry ruins, offering breathtaking views of the historic watchtower and the open water beyond. Dining here is truly a feast for the senses. It’s said that each course is served with stories—local legends, cultural references, or Tokaido-inspired presentation and tableware. Even the desserts occasionally feature motifs that represent the history of Miya-juku and the Tokaido, turning every meal into an experience that nourishes both body and soul.
Menu at Kissa Miyamachi
| Pasta | |
|---|---|
| Shirasu & Bottarga Peperoncino | ¥1,600 |
| Snow Crab & Crab Miso Aglio e Olio | ¥1,900 |
| Shrimp & Basil Tomato Pasta | ¥1,700 |
| Prosciutto & Mushroom Cream Pasta | ¥1,600 |
| Porcini Mushroom Cream Pasta | ¥1,700 |
| Truffle-Infused Carbonara | ¥1,800 |
| Desserts | |
| Miyamachi Pudding | ¥650 |
| Coffee Jelly | ¥650 |
| Vanilla Ice Cream | ¥400 |
| Matcha Ice Cream | ¥400 |
| Strawberry Ice Cream | ¥400 |
| Coffee & Tea | |
| Original Blend Coffee (Hot / Iced) | ¥700 |
| Café au Lait (Hot / Iced) | ¥700 |
| Earl Grey Tea (Hot / Iced) | ¥800 |
| Darjeeling Tea (Hot / Iced) | ¥800 |
| Japanese Black Tea – Tanegashima (Hot / Iced) | ¥800 |
| Milk Tea (Hot / Iced) | ¥900 |
| Lemon Tea (Hot / Iced) | ¥900 |
| Homemade Drinks | |
| Housemade Cola | ¥700 |
| Housemade Ginger Ale | ¥700 |
| Soft Drinks | |
| Green Tea | ¥450 |
| Oolong Tea | ¥450 |
| Calpis | ¥450 |
| Apple Juice | ¥500 |
| Mandarin Orange Juice | ¥500 |
| Grape Juice | ¥500 |
| Ginger Ale | ¥500 |
| Coca-Cola | ¥500 |
| Sparkling Water (Dry Zero) | ¥500 |
| Perrier Sparkling Water | ¥600 |
| Non-Alcoholic Beer (Dry Zero) | ¥600 |
| Non-Alcoholic Sparkling Wine (Dry) (Joëa Organic Chardonnay) | ¥800 |
| Organic Sparkling Grape Juice (Dry) | ¥900 |
| Alcoholic Drinks | |
| Draft Beer (Super Dry) | ¥900 |
| Bottled Beer | ¥800 |
| Glass of Wine (Red / White) | ¥800 |
| Sparkling Wine | ¥900 |
| Highball | ¥1,000 |
| Frybread Specials | |
| Honey Butter Frybread | ¥900 |
| Chocolate & Nuts Frybread | ¥1,100 |
| Strawberry & Red Bean Frybread | ¥1,600 |
| Matcha Custard Frybread | ¥1,400 |
| Baked Apple Frybread | ¥1,500 |
| Eggs Benedict Frybread | ¥1,400 |
| Roast Beef Sandwich Frybread (Limited) | ¥1,800 |
| Frybread Toppings | |
| Red Bean Paste | ¥200 |
| Custard Cream | ¥200 |
| Ice Cream Scoop (Vanilla / Matcha / Strawberry) | ¥200 |
| Honey | ¥100 |
* Prices listed include tax as of 2025 and are subject to change.
Kissa Miyamachi | Must-Try Highlights
One of the most popular items at Kissa Miyamachi is their house-made Fried Bread, inspired by traditional Native American frybread. Made with locally grown Aichi wheat and slowly fermented at low temperatures, it turns out golden and crispy on the outside, soft and chewy on the inside, with a naturally subtle sweetness. We didn’t order it that day—saving room for our unagi dinner reservation—but looking back, we definitely regretted missing out!
This signature frybread is available in both sweet and savory styles. One standout is the baked apple version served with vanilla ice cream and honey, sizzling hot on an iron plate. There’s also a brunch-style Eggs Benedict Frybread, topped with a soft-boiled egg, hollandaise sauce, bacon, and lettuce. For something heartier, try the Roast Beef Sandwich Frybread—rich, well-seasoned, and served with pickles and mustard. Seasonal varieties like matcha, cheese, and red bean are also featured from time to time, with prices typically ranging between ¥900 and ¥1,500.
We ended up ordering two drinks and one of their most popular desserts—the Miyamachi Pudding. If you’re a fan of retro Showa-style puddings, this one’s a must-try. It has a dense, custardy texture, rich with egg flavor and just the right amount of sweetness. The caramel sauce is served on the side, allowing you to control the sweetness to your liking. Cutting into it with a fork and taking that first bite—smooth yet firm, bittersweet and aromatic—it’s a nostalgic, comforting dessert that lingers in your memory.
Other Recommended Dishes & Drinks
- Pasta dishes: Try the Shrimp & Basil Tomato Pasta or the Shirasu & Bottarga Peperoncino.
- Salads & Light Bites: Includes prosciutto salad and seasonal vegetables with house-made Japanese-style dressing.
- Drinks: Freshly brewed coffee, café lattes served in Noritake bone china, house-made ginger ale, pink grapefruit juice, signature cola, draft beer, and white wine.
Shop Information
| Shop Name | Kissa Miyamachi（みやまち） |
|---|---|
| Address | 913 Kanbe-cho, Atsuta Ward, Nagoya, Aichi (Approx. 11-minute walk from Tenma-cho Station) |
| Phone | 052-682-5161 |
| Business Hours | 10:30 AM – 3:30 PM (Last order at 3:00 PM) |
| Closed | Wednesdays and Thursdays (subject to change on public holidays) |
| Parking | Yes, approximately 10 spaces available about a 1–2 minute walk to the east |
| Payment | Cash, credit cards, and mobile payment (including QR code) |
| @miyamachi.isekyu |
Final Thoughts
Kissa Miyamachi is far more than just a place to pass the time while waiting for your table at Horaiken—it’s a peaceful retreat where you can unwind, soak in the atmosphere of a beautifully preserved historic home, and enjoy thoughtfully crafted food and drinks. Whether you're sipping coffee at the bar, indulging in a nostalgic pudding, or exploring their seasonal frybread offerings, the experience here is calm, heartfelt, and truly authentic. With warm service, tranquil surroundings, and fair prices, it’s the kind of place you’ll remember—and want to return to again and again.