Ever since moved to Kyoto, I’ve often passed by traditional unagi (grilled eel) restaurants. Despite unagi being one of my all-time favorite foods, I never actually stepped inside. Years ago, I had a painful experience of getting a fish bone stuck in my throat, left a lingering mental block—not quite fear, but just enough hesitation to keep me from indulging.
So, during our four-day trip to Nagoya, I quietly made it my mission to finally overcome that mental hurdle—and enjoy my very first bowl of unagi rice in Japan.
Choosing Atsuta Houraiken was an easy decision. It’s the birthplace of the iconic Hitsumabushi—Nagoya’s signature style of enjoying grilled eel—and a cherished institution among locals. The city lies in Aichi Prefecture, one of Japan’s top eel farming regions. Nearby areas like Isshiki in Nishio City and the Mikawa region produce some of the finest eel in the country. Many Nagoya restaurants source their eel from these trusted local farms, ensuring top-tier quality. Honestly, skipping this legendary, century-old establishment would’ve been a huge miss.
Atsuta Houraiken: The Origin and Essence of Nagoya’s Iconic Eel Dish
When people talk about must-try food in Nagoya, one name always comes up: Hitsumabushi—a unique dish that lets you enjoy grilled eel in three distinct ways. And the origin of this iconic style? None other than Atsuta Houraiken, which even trademarked the word “ひつまぶし” to protect its culinary legacy.
Established in 1873, Atsuta Houraiken stands as one of the oldest unagi restaurants in Nagoya. Originally known for traditional banquet-style Japanese cuisine, the restaurant rose to fame after introducing its innovative method of serving eel: Hitsumabushi.
This now-famous approach dates back to the late Meiji era. At the time, unagi rice was served in large wooden tubs, or “oke-meshi.” However, since the eel fillets were simply laid on top, guests often ended up unevenly sharing—some getting only rice, others only eel. To solve this, a thoughtful waitress suggested finely chopping the grilled eel and mixing it evenly into the rice before dividing it into individual portions. This small but smart act of reducing food waste and promoting fairness eventually evolved into a beloved dining ritual. It brought a sense of ceremony to the meal and helped Atsuta Houraiken earn its reputation as more than just a restaurant—it became a place of warm, communal celebration.
Atsuta Houraiken's cultural significance runs even deeper thanks to its close ties with Atsuta Shrine, a revered Shinto site that enshrines the Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi—one of the Three Sacred Treasures of Japan, a mythical sword believed to repel evil and embody imperial power. According to local tradition, eating a bowl of unagi on “Doyo no Ushi no Hi” (the Midsummer Day of the Ox) at Houraiken is believed to cleanse the body of summer fatigue and promote vitality for the year ahead. Families still gather here for New Year’s, Coming-of-Age Day, and the 7-5-3 Festival—a beloved tradition where children aged 3, 5, and 7 dress in colorful kimono and visit shrines to pray for health and growth. There’s even a charming superstition that whoever receives the first bowl of eel rice will be blessed with good fortune all year long.
At Atsuta Houraiken, each bowl of eel rice carries more than just flavor—it carries stories, memories, and generations of tradition.
The soul of the restaurant lies in its legendary century-old tare sauce. Since its founding, the same pot of sauce has never been emptied; new sauce is added daily, carefully simmered over charcoal to deepen the flavor while preserving the original base. Food lovers often say that tasting Houraiken’s tare is like sampling a century of culinary wisdom. Add to that their commitment to slow charcoal grilling—no machines involved—and the result is a richly aromatic, delicately textured unagi that’s second to none.
The original restaurant was destroyed in the air raids of 1945, but Houraiken was later rebuilt on the same site. Its architecture still reflects the classic Furuyataku style—a traditional Japanese wooden home—and the restaurant continues to serve as a cultural hub for the community.
A recent renovation of the neighboring Isekyu Inn unveiled a remarkable surprise: a well-preserved historical ledger in the basement listing the names of geisha, samurai, and other notable locals who once made offerings to Atsuta Shrine. The discovery further confirmed the area’s long-standing role as a vibrant intersection of faith, food, and community identity.
Despite its fame, Atsuta Houraiken has never opened branches in Tokyo, Osaka, or Kyoto. It remains exclusive to Nagoya—a testament to its uncompromising artisan spirit. This exclusivity is exactly what makes the experience feel so special: a taste you can only enjoy by coming here in person.
Step into Houraiken, and you’re not just savoring a meal. You’re stepping into a tradition steeped in blessings, memory, and the comforting warmth of dashi-scented air.
Check-In, Wait Times & Nearby Attractions Around Atsuta Houraiken
Arrival & Registration: 1:00 PM Arrival, 90-Minute Wait Experience
We arrived at the main branch of Atsuta Houraiken around 1:00 PM. A staff member stood at the entrance, managing walk-in reservations. We wrote down our names and phone number on a list and were asked to return by 2:30 PM—a typical 90-minute wait, regardless of whether it's a weekday or a weekend.
Skipping Atsuta Shrine: Wandering the Backstreets Instead
At first, we thought about using the downtime to visit Atsuta Shrine. But with the sky turning gray and the timing a bit tight, we didn’t want to risk getting caught in the rain or walking too far. A quick check on Google Maps led us to an unexpected find just three minutes away: the Shichiri-no-Watashi Site, tucked away in a quiet alley beside the restaurant. It’s small but peaceful—perfect for a short stroll.
After Exploring the Historic Dock: A Curious Old Building Caught Our Eye
The Shichiri-no-Watashi Site only took about 10 minutes to explore—just enough time to snap a few photos and soak in the tranquility. As we looked around for what to do next, an intriguing old building across the way caught our attention. With no signage or visible windows, it was hard to tell whether it was a ryokan or a restaurant. Just then, two elderly ladies stepped out, and we managed to catch a glimpse inside. To our surprise, it was a hidden café with a quiet, refined atmosphere.
Stumbling into Miyamachi Café: From Pudding to Taisho-Era Charm
So in we went—into a charming little spot called Miyamachi Café. We cooled off in the A/C, ordered iced coffee, and treated ourselves to a nostalgic custard pudding. Most people enjoy dessert after a meal, but that day, we flipped the script. And honestly? No regrets.
Only later did we learn that this café is actually run by Atsuta Houraiken! Located inside the historic Isekyu Inn—a building designated as a tangible cultural property by the city of Nagoya—the space exudes a serene, old-world charm. The décor preserves the romantic aesthetics of the Taisho era, with thoughtful touches throughout. The staff were welcoming and even encouraged us to explore the garden and peek upstairs. Opened in 2025, the first floor now operates as a café, while the second floor serves as a reservation-only Japanese dining room.
What began as a routine wait for lunch turned into a serendipitous discovery that instantly lifted our spirits.
Atsuta Houraiken Dining Experience: From Check-In to Tatami Room Seating
Right at 2:30, we returned to check in. The staff confirmed our names and guided us to wait in the garden area. From there, we were led to the entrance, where we swapped our shoes for indoor slippers. Everything was orderly and well-staffed, with plenty of servers guiding guests along. After changing shoes, we waited briefly in a holding area until our table was ready.
When our turn came, we were ushered into a cozy private room with two four-person tables, one of which faced the Japanese garden. We didn’t get the garden-side seats, but our spot inside was spacious and quiet. The building itself, though aged, is clearly well-maintained. The wooden floors, tatami mats, and shoji screens were all in beautiful condition. Perhaps influenced by the serene ambiance, guests spoke softly, and the whole space felt calm and respectful.
From Savory Eel to Comforting Broth: Four Ways to Enjoy One Bowl of Hitsumabushi
I ordered their signature dish: the classic Hitsumabushi (¥4,950). The grilled eel was cut into bite-sized pieces and beautifully arranged on top of rice, its glossy surface promising richness. The set came with toppings—shredded seaweed, chopped scallions, and fresh wasabi—as well as a pot of steaming katsuobushi (bonito) broth for making ochazuke, a bowl of miso soup, pickles, and a small empty bowl. The idea is to portion the eel rice into the small bowl for each “round” of eating.
First Way: Pure & Unadorned Eel Flavor
Divide the eel rice into four parts. For the first serving, eat it as is—no toppings, no broth. Honestly, it was already incredible. The slightly charred eel skin paired with a rich yet not overly salty sauce, and the rice had just the right chewy softness. Best of all, I couldn’t detect a single bone. It was an unexpectedly delightful start.
Second Way: Add Toppings for a Flavor Boost
For the second serving, I added the toppings: seaweed, scallions, and wasabi. The heat from the wasabi brought out the eel’s natural sweetness, while the seaweed added a layer of umami depth. It was a bold yet balanced twist.
Third Way: Warm Ochazuke for a Gentle Finish
The third style is ochazuke—pour the hot dashi broth over your eel rice. The rich, savory flavors mellow into a soothing warmth. It’s a complete sensory shift—from intense to delicate, from hearty to gentle. To be honest, by this point, I was already getting full.
The fourth way is dealer’s choice. I scooped the last portion into a bowl, made another round of ochazuke, and handed it over to my husband to finish.
Nagayaki Teishoku: Classic Grilled Eel, Pure and Simple
My husband ordered the Nagayaki Teishoku, a more straightforward version of the grilled eel set. Served in a rectangular lacquered box, the eel fillets were grilled until golden with slightly crisp edges. Like the Hitsumabushi, the eel had a beautiful shine from its natural oils, with skin that gently crackled and meat that remained tender and juicy.
Both dishes use the same century-old house tare sauce and are slow-grilled over charcoal, ensuring deep flavor and a perfectly textured finish. Nagayaki is a simpler presentation—just four generous slices of eel laid over steamed rice, allowing the balance of fish, sauce, and rice to speak for itself. The set came with a clear Japanese-style broth and a small side of pickled vegetables. Everything looked clean, harmonious, and as satisfying as it appeared.
Worth the Wait: A Meal That Feels Safe and Satisfying
We both agreed: the wait was absolutely worth it. The restaurant is said to use eels with fine bones and well-marbled flesh, paired with expert knife skills and charcoal grilling, resulting in a buttery, nearly boneless texture. It felt safe, luxurious, and deeply enjoyable.
The Hitsumabushi portion was even more generous than expected—perhaps because we’d already enjoyed pudding and coffee at Miyamachi Café before lunch. Halfway through, we were already full, but the flavor was so good we couldn’t stop. Every bite was deeply satisfying. The slow, relaxed pace of the meal—enhanced by the earlier wait—only made the experience more meaningful. It wasn’t just a meal; it was a moment well-earned.
Atsuta Houraiken 2025 Menu: Set Meals, Side Dishes & Drinks
In addition to the original Japanese menu, Atsuta Houraiken provides English, Chinese, and Korean menus, making it highly accessible for international travelers. You won’t need to worry about any language barriers when ordering.
The menu below highlights the main set meals, à la carte dishes, and a selection of drink options. The restaurant also offers an extensive range of local sake—featuring labels like Kunisake, Kusanagi, and Nenohi—as well as specialty shochu, a traditional Japanese distilled spirit. Shochu varieties include Isami (sweet potato) and Kichomu (barley), served either hot or cold. These drink offerings are not fully listed below, so be sure to explore the complete menu when dining in.
How to Eat Hitsumabushi (Grilled Eel Rice Served Four Ways):
1. First portion: Try it plain—no condiments, just savor the original flavor.
2. Second portion: Add toppings like green onion, seaweed, or wasabi.
3. Third portion: Add toppings and pour in the hot broth to make ochazuke (tea-infused rice).
4. Final portion: Choose your favorite method and enjoy the last bowl your way.
| Dish | Price | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Set Meals | ||
| Hitsumabushi (Grilled Eel, Four Ways) | ¥4,950 / ¥6,600 (XL) | ひつまぶし Comes with full instruction and toppings for four styles of eating |
| Nagayaki Teishoku | ¥4,100 / ¥5,700 (Large) | Served with rice, clear soup, and pickles |
| Shirayaki Teishoku | ¥4,100 / ¥5,700 (Large) | Grilled eel without sauce, served with rice, soup, and pickles |
| Unagi Donburi (Eel Rice Bowl) | ¥2,200 (S) / ¥3,300 / ¥4,100 (L) / ¥5,700 (XL) | Served with soup and pickles |
| Umaki Teishoku | ¥3,400 | うまき定食 Japanese rolled omelet with eel + mini Hitsumabushi |
| Sashimi Teishoku | ¥3,900 | Includes assorted sashimi and seasonal sides |
| Tempura Teishoku | ¥3,900 | Includes mixed tempura and seasonal sides |
| À la Carte | ||
| Kimo-yaki (Grilled Eel Liver) | ¥750 | Charcoal-grilled, with house soy sauce |
| Kimo-ni (Simmered Eel Liver) | ¥750 | Simmered in house soy-based sauce |
| Kimo-ponzu | ¥750 | Served with yuzu citrus vinegar |
| Kimo-karaage | ¥750 | Japanese-style deep-fried eel liver |
| Kimo-wasabi | ¥750 | Served with freshly grated wasabi |
| Kimo-karashi | ¥750 | Seasoned with miso and mustard |
| Umaki (Eel Omelet) | ¥1,200 | Japanese rolled omelet with eel |
| Uzaku | ¥750 | Grilled eel with cucumber and sweet vinegar |
| Unagi Sushi | ¥4,200 / ¥2,300 (Half) | Specialty sushi with house eel sauce |
| Nagayaki Platter | ¥3,700 / ¥5,300 (Large) | Charcoal-grilled eel in house sauce |
| Shirayaki Platter | ¥3,700 / ¥5,300 (Large) | No sauce—served with wasabi and soy |
| Sashimi Assortment | ¥2,300 (Ume) / ¥3,200 (Take) / ¥4,500 (Matsu) | Assorted fresh sashimi platters |
| Shiro-mi Sashimi | ¥2,500 | White fish sashimi |
| Shiro-mi Usuzukuri | ¥2,500 | Thinly sliced white fish sashimi |
| Tuna Akami (Tsukiji) | ¥1,700 | Lean bluefin tuna from Tokyo's Tsukiji market |
| Tuna Toro (Tsukiji) | ¥4,000 | Fatty bluefin tuna belly from Tsukiji |
| Ise Ebi Sashimi | ¥3,850 | Fresh spiny lobster sashimi (head used for miso soup) |
| Mozuku Vinegar | ¥600 | Okinawan seaweed with vinegar |
| Sashimi Konjac | ¥750 | Three-color konjac sashimi |
| Kono-wata | ¥1,200 | Salted sea cucumber entrails (delicacy) |
| Unagi Hone Senbei | ¥400 | Crunchy deep-fried eel bones |
| Salad | ¥950 / ¥300 (Small) | Japanese-style vegetable salad |
| Fried Chicken (Karaage) | ¥1,500 | Japanese-style fried chicken (6 pcs) |
| Grilled Chicken | ¥1,600 | Choice of salt or teriyaki-style |
| House Pudding | ¥380 | Homemade custard pudding |
| Drinks | ||
| Plum Liquor | ¥600 | Classic umeshu |
| Yuzu Plum Liquor | ¥600 | With citrus yuzu flavor |
| Apple Juice | ¥450 | 100% pure juice |
| Orange Juice | ¥500 | 100% pure juice |
| Coca-Cola | ¥400 | Classic Coke |
| Oolong Tea | ¥350 | Japanese oolong tea |
| Red Wine | ¥350 (glass) / ¥5,500+ (bottle) | House red wine |
| White Wine | ¥5,100+ (bottle) | House white wine |
More Than Just Eel Rice: Side Dishes Worth Trying at Atsuta Houraiken
If you still have room after your main course, Houraiken offers several flavorful side dishes that can round out your meal. The portions are small, but each delivers its own distinct taste. Here are some of the most popular sides to consider, depending on your appetite:
Grilled Eel Liver Skewer (Kimo-yaki)
Charcoal-grilled and rich in umami, the eel liver skewer has a tender yet slightly chewy texture, with a pleasant bitterness that lingers. It’s a bold, distinctly adult flavor—highly recommended if you're in the mood for something unique.
Thick Japanese Omelet (Dashi-maki Tamago)
Made with a broth enriched by eel essence, this rolled omelet is soft, subtly sweet, and provides a gentle pause between bites of rich grilled eel. A comforting and elegant contrast.
Simmered Lotus Root or Seasonal Sides
Depending on the season, you might find refreshing options like simmered lotus root, shredded yam, or marinated vegetables. These small side dishes are light, clean-tasting, and designed to reset your palate.
Crispy Eel Bone Crackers
Deep-fried until golden and crunchy, these eel bone crisps are a savory snack with a delightful crunch. Perfect with hot tea—or as a sake or beer companion.
These sides won’t leave you overly full, but they add nuance to the meal and help create a balanced, satisfying dining rhythm. Add one or two to your table for a more varied and memorable dining experience without feeling overwhelmed.
Atsuta Houraiken Honten: Restaurant Info & Access
| Restaurant Details｜Atsuta Houraiken Honten | |
|---|---|
| Address | 503 Jingu-machi, Atsuta-ku, Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture |
| Phone | 052-671-8686 |
| Opening Hours |
Lunch｜11:30 AM – 2:00 PM (last order) Dinner｜4:30 PM – 8:30 PM (last order) |
| Closed |
Every Wednesday 2nd and 4th Thursdays of each month (open on public holidays) ※ Be sure to check their website for the latest hours before visiting. |
| Reservations & Waitlist |
No phone or online reservations In-person waitlist only—register your name and phone number at the entrance A numbered ticket will be issued with an estimated entry time ※ Expect 1–2 hour waits during weekends and lunch hours; plan accordingly. |
| Official Website | http://www.houraiken.com/ |
| Payment Methods |
Cash, Credit Cards (VISA / JCB / AMEX, etc.) All prices include tax. No service charge. |
Recommended Transportation
-
🔸 Subway Route (Recommended – Easy Transfers)
- From Nagoya Station, take the Higashiyama Line (yellow) to Sakae Station (about 5 minutes)
- At Sakae Station, transfer to the Meijo Line (purple circular line) bound for Kanayama
- Ride for 3 stops and get off at Tenma-cho Station
- Use Exit 2 or Exit 4, then walk about 7–8 minutes to reach Atsuta Houraiken Honten
-
🔸 JR Line (Faster, but a Slightly Longer Walk)
- From Nagoya Station, take the JR Tokaido Main Line to Atsuta Station (approx. 3 minutes)
- Walk about 10 minutes from the station to the restaurant
Nearby Attractions & How to Spend Your Wait Time
Atsuta Shrine
Atsuta Shrine is one of Nagoya’s most important and historic shrines, with a legacy of over 1,900 years. It’s considered second only to the Ise Grand Shrine in national significance. The shrine enshrines the sacred sword Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi, one of the Three Imperial Regalia of Japan.
Surrounded by towering trees and lush greenery, the grounds offer a serene urban oasis loved by locals. Highlights include the Treasure Hall, the Nobunaga Wall, and a sacred camphor tree that’s over a thousand years old. It’s a popular spot to pray for good fortune, love, and health.
| Walking Time | Approx. 10–15 minutes |
| Address | 1-1-1 Jingu, Atsuta Ward, Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture |
| Opening Hours | Open year-round for shrine visits (Treasure Hall has separate hours and admission fees) |
Shichiri-no-Watashiba Ruins & Miyano Watashi Park
The old Tokaido was a major highway connecting Edo (now Tokyo) and Kyoto during the Edo period, stretching 492 km with 53 official post stations.
Among them, the most iconic water route was Shichiri-no-Watashi—the only leg that required a ferry crossing over Ise Bay, between Station 41 (Miya-juku) and Station 42 (Kuwana-juku). The journey covered about seven "ri" (roughly 28 kilometers), making it a key maritime passage for travelers at the time.
Today, Miyano Watashi Park preserves remnants of that history, including the perpetual lantern, time bell, and the remains of the old shipyard. The park also features informative signs and a tranquil pine-lined path—perfect for photography, historical discovery, or a peaceful stroll.
| Walking Time | Approx. 3–5 minutes (via a small alley behind Houraiken Honten) |
| Address | Uchida-cho, Atsuta Ward, Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture 456-0044 |
| Opening Hours | Open year-round, no admission fee |
Miyamachi Kissaten (Café)
Miyamachi is a retro-style Japanese café operated by Houraiken and opened in 2025. It’s located just across the street inside a historic ryokan building called “Isekyu,” which is registered as a cultural property of Nagoya.
The interior preserves the romantic architecture of the Taisho era, complete with garden views and nostalgic Tokaido-themed decor. The ambiance is quiet and cozy.
The café serves handmade desserts, Japanese-style coffee and tea, and light bites—including unique items like American fry bread. It’s a perfect spot to relax with a drink, wait for your reservation, or enjoy the charm of a traditional house.
| Walking Time | Right across the street from Houraiken Honten |
| Address | 913 Gobocho, Atsuta Ward, Nagoya, Aichi |
| Opening Hours | 10:30 AM – 3:30 PM (Last order: 3:00 PM) / Closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays |
| @miyamachi.isekyu |