Umezono Kyoto – Traditional Wagashi & Kakigori at Sanjo Teramachi | A Sweet Taste of Old Kyoto

Umezono Sanjo Teramachi is located at the bustling intersection of Sanjo Shopping Street and Teramachi Street in Kyoto
Umezono Sanjo Teramachi sits right at the lively crossroads of Sanjo Shopping Street and Teramachi Street in Kyoto.

It’s been four years since we moved to Kyoto, yet it was only recently that we stepped inside Umezono Sanjo Teramachi for the very first time. It’s not that the shop is tucked away in some hidden alley—quite the opposite. It’s right at the heart of bustling Sanjo Shopping Street and Teramachi Street in the Kawaramachi area. Over the years, we’ve lost count of how many times we’ve walked past its entrance, each time catching sight of the long line of customers outside and telling ourselves, “We’ll come another day.” That 'another day' ended up taking almost four years to arrive.

Today was finally that day.

On an early August afternoon, Kyoto was as sweltering as ever—one of those 104°F (40°C) days, the kind of heat that makes you question why you ever stepped outside. The Gion Matsuri had just wrapped up, so the streets were a little less crowded than usual, but with summer vacation in full swing, the city was still buzzing. We had planned a quick trip downtown to pick up a few things and grab dinner, but as we passed by Umezono, we spotted something unusual: only two small groups waiting in line. A fabric banner with the character for “ice” fluttered at the shop’s entrance, swaying gently in the heat as if beckoning us: “If you don’t come in today, it might be years before you do.” And just like that, we decided—no more putting it off.


The Story of Umezono – A Historic Kyoto Sweet Shop Born in Kawaramachi

The interior retains the wooden framework of a Showa-era building, evoking a calm, nostalgic atmosphere
The interior preserves the wooden framework of a Showa-era building, accented with touches of Taisho-era romanticism.

With nearly a century of history, Umezono is among Kyoto’s most beloved traditional sweet shops. The Sanjo–Teramachi branch is actually its fifth location. I had always assumed this was their original store, but later discovered that the true birthplace of Umezono is a smaller, but easily found, space on Kawaramachi Street, right next to a wholesale grocery store.

Umezono was founded in 1927 (Showa 2) as a tiny shop on Kawaramachi Street specializing in mitarashi dango—skewered rice dumplings glazed with a sweet soy sauce. Back then, their claim to fame was grilling the dango over charcoal, one skewer at a time. Unlike the typical ball-shaped dumplings, Umezono’s are crafted in a rare “tawara” shape (meaning “straw rice bale” in Japanese)—a thick rectangular form said to allow the sauce to coat more evenly for a richer, deeper flavor. Made from hand-kneaded shiratamako (glutinous rice flour), each dumpling is brushed with their house-made sauce—an umami-rich blend of dark soy sauce, sugar, and other seasonings—creating a perfect balance of sweet and savory, all wrapped in an irresistible smoky aroma. Even today, they continue to grill their dango over traditional charcoal, achieving a slightly charred, chewy exterior and a soft, silky center—a texture and flavor that gas stoves or machines simply can’t replicate. Simple yet soulful, this everyday treat quickly became part of Kyoto’s daily rhythm. In the early days, many locals would grab a skewer while passing through Kawaramachi, savoring it on the go as a small but cherished pleasure in their busy routines.

When the second generation took over, Umezono gradually expanded, opening a branch near Kiyomizu-dera Temple. Alongside their signature charcoal-grilled dango, they introduced other traditional sweets such as zenzai (thick sweet red bean soup) and house-made warabi mochi (chewy bracken starch jelly). These offerings gave tired travelers a place to rest, savor a steaming skewer of dango, and warm up with a comforting bowl of sweet bean soup—both nourishing the body and soothing the spirit.

Keeping Tradition Fresh – How a Century-Old Kyoto Wagashi Shop Stays Trendy

Under Aoi Nishikawa, the third-generation owner, Umezono embraced a new vision: honoring tradition while making wagashi (Japanese confections) keep pace with modern lifestyles. In 2010, she opened Umezono CAFE & GALLERY (Kyoto wagashi café) in a restored machiya townhouse near Nishiki Market, adding pancakes, lattes, and matcha drinks to the menu, along with an exhibition space for art and cultural events. It quickly became not only a place to enjoy sweets, but also a creative hub for sharing ideas and art.

In 2016, the more modern Umezono Sabo opened, featuring the visually stunning kazari-kan (intricately designed decorative yokan, or jellied bean paste). Designed with seasonal colors and shapes, these artful creations perfectly balance aesthetics and flavor, making the shop a social media favorite. Just next door is another local gem—the retro-style bathhouse café, Cafe Sarasa Nishijin.

Then in 2017, the Umezono Sanjo–Teramachi branch officially opened in a renovated Showa-era cafeteria building. The redesign preserved its nostalgic charm while adding modern touches. In addition to their signature sweets, they launched the branch-exclusive Hana-Tenshin set—a beautifully arranged plate of assorted traditional and creative wagashi, including the floral-inspired An no Hanataba. Upstairs seating offers a view of the bustling street below, making it the perfect spot to slow down and savor the moment. In the display case by the entrance, models of red bean soup and warabi mochi sit quietly—not flashy, but radiating a quiet confidence born from decades of craftsmanship.

In 2020, Umezono Oyatsu opened inside JR Kyoto Isetan department store, offering packaged sweets and gifts for travelers to take home—bringing a little taste of Kyoto beyond the city.

Nearly 100 years on, Umezono has evolved from skewers of charcoal-grilled dango to decorative yokan, matcha pancakes, and Hana-Tenshin platters. More than just desserts, Umezono offers a gentle, enduring reminder of Kyoto’s timeless beauty in everyday indulgence.


Umezono’s Flagship & Kyoto Branch Locations – Highlights and Addresses


Inside Umezono Sanjo–Teramachi: Kyoto Wagashi Café Atmosphere & Features

Second floor with exposed wooden beams, sloped ceiling, window-side sofas, and a large round table
The second floor features exposed wooden beams beneath a sloped ceiling, with window-side sofas and a large round table.

This time, we visited Umezono at the Sanjo–Teramachi intersection. From the outside, it’s a Showa-style wooden building whose interior exudes Taisho-era romanticism: large wooden-framed windows with fine latticework, some frosted to create a soft, semi-private feel that gently diffuses the light. The shop’s name, 甘党茶屋 梅園 (Amato Chaya Umezono, literally “Sweet-Lovers’ Teahouse Umezono”), is hand-painted in elegant gold lettering on a deep-toned wooden signboard, adding a refined, timeless touch to the façade.

By the entrance stands a rustic display case showcasing realistic models of the shop’s traditional Japanese sweets, alongside a wooden menu stand listing popular items such as shaved ice, red bean desserts, warabi mochi, and mitarashi dango. In summer, a cloth banner with the kanji “氷” (ice) hangs by the door—an iconic symbol of Japanese summer—signaling that shaved ice is available. Step inside and to the left, an open kitchen invites you to watch skilled artisans grill fresh mitarashi dango over charcoal right before your eyes. The exterior and interior design maintain a cohesive, understated elegance that blends seamlessly with the surrounding streetscape.

The interior preserves the original framework of the Showa-era cafeteria building, with both floors centered around warm wooden structures that infuse the space with a calm, understated atmosphere and a gentle scent of aged timber. On the first floor, the checkout counter and dessert-making area sit to the left of the entrance. A large round table anchors the center, surrounded by small two-top tables and cushioned leather-backed seating. Dark wood paneling, white walls, and round pendant lights cast a soft, retro glow, evoking the charm of a classic Kyoto café.

Upstairs is a quieter dining area with exposed wooden beams, a sloped ceiling, and dark hardwood floors. The main seating here is a row of window-side sofas equipped with power outlets—perfect for lingering over dessert, catching up on work, or simply savoring the street view while you dine. The opposite side holds several round tables and two-person settings, offering flexible seating arrangements. The thoughtful layout and attention to detail make this a space that blends functional comfort with traditional Japanese charm.


What We Ordered: Brown Sugar Aroma Meets Sweet–Savory Dango

Umezono’s brown sugar shiratama warabi mochi kakigori – fluffy shaved ice drizzled with rich brown sugar syrup, topped with chewy rice dumplings and melt-in-your-mouth warabi mochi
Deep, fragrant brown sugar syrup with warabi mochi so soft it melts instantly on the tongue

When our turn came, the staff guided us upstairs to a cozy two-person table near the stairs. From the window, we caught glimpses of the lively crowds flowing through the Sanjo–Teramachi intersection. We had originally planned to order the Hana-Tenshin set, but it had already sold out. Instead, we chose the Brown Sugar Shiratama with Brown Sugar Warabi Mochi Kakigori (shaved ice) and a set of mitarashi dango with mitsu-mame.

The Brown Sugar Shiratama Warabi Mochi Kakigori (Kyoto shaved ice) arrived like a petite mountain of freshly fallen snow, generously drizzled with glossy brown sugar syrup. One spoonful and we were immediately captivated by the depth of its aroma—rich and caramel-like, yet layered with a faint bitterness that kept it from being cloying. The shiratama—small, chewy rice dumplings—had a pleasantly tender bite with a gentle rice fragrance, pairing perfectly with the syrup’s earthy sweetness. The warabi mochi was luxuriously soft, nearly dissolving upon contact, adding an indulgent textural contrast to the dessert.

The other order, mitarashi dango with mitsu-mame, was a beautifully balanced mix of tradition and presentation. The first thing to hit was the inviting aroma of their signature sauce. The tawara-shaped dango (a traditional straw rice bale shape rarely seen today) were grilled to perfection, with a light char on the outside and a sweet-salty glaze instantly evoking the cozy, nostalgic feel of classic Japanese dramas. The accompanying mitsu-mame featured chilled agar jelly cubes, sweet red beans, shiratama, and chestnuts, served with a small pot of kuromitsu (black sugar syrup) to pour to taste. Refreshing and well-balanced, it was just the right portion in both flavor and size.


Umezono Sanjo–Teramachi Menu & Popular Picks

Mitarashi dango with mitsu-mame – a visually charming and traditionally rooted Japanese sweet set
Mitarashi dango with mitsu-mame – a Japanese sweet set that combines visual appeal with tradition

At the Sanjo–Teramachi branch of Umezono, the menu blends Kyoto’s classic wagashi with creative seasonal offerings you won’t find anywhere else. From limited-edition shaved ice in summer to artistically plated dessert sets, each item showcases the café’s dedication to balancing flavor, presentation, and tradition. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a returning fan, these popular picks are the perfect way to experience the charm of a Kyoto wagashi café.

  1. Kyoto Classics
    Mitarashi Dango (みたらし団子): A long-time signature of Umezono, these skewered rice dumplings are handmade from premium shiratamako (glutinous rice flour), grilled over charcoal until lightly charred and pleasantly chewy, then coated in a perfectly balanced sweet–savory glaze. Simple yet deeply satisfying, this is a must-try for first-time visitors seeking authentic Kyoto street flavors.
  2. Exclusive Signatures
    Hana Tenshin Platter (花点心): A Sanjō Teramachi branch–exclusive dessert set that beautifully presents multiple wagashi on one plate, including mitarashi dango, warabi mochi, a mini bowl of sweet red bean soup, and seasonal confections. Artfully arranged like a bouquet, it embodies a perfect harmony of tradition and creativity.
    An no Hanataba (あんの花束): A modern wagashi created by third-generation owner Aoi Nishikawa, featuring delicately crafted, flower-shaped sweets. This charming fusion of Japanese and Western dessert styles is available only at the Sanjō Teramachi location.
  3. Summer Refreshers
    Brown Sugar Shiratama + Brown Sugar Warabi Mochi Kakigori: A summer-exclusive shaved ice piled high and generously drizzled with rich Okinawan brown sugar syrup, topped with chewy shiratama dumplings, silky warabi mochi, and aromatic kinako (roasted soybean flour). A cooling treat with deep, mellow sweetness—pure Kyoto summer bliss.
    Uji Kintoki Kakigori: A beloved Kyoto classic of fluffy shaved ice flavored with fragrant Uji matcha syrup, then topped with sweet red beans and shiratama dumplings. Mildly sweet, refreshing, and an absolute must for matcha lovers.
  4. Warm Comfort Wagashi
    Zenzai (ぜんざい): A comforting bowl of sweet red bean soup made from premium Dainagon azuki beans, slow-simmered to perfection for a soft yet toothsome texture, served with chewy shiratama dumplings. Perfect for winter visits or whenever you crave a taste of old Kyoto.
    Warabi Mochi: Handcrafted, jelly-like bracken-starch mochi generously dusted with aromatic kinako. Soft, smooth, and a must-try for dedicated wagashi enthusiasts.
  5. Tea & Light Bites
    Matcha Pancakes: Thick, fluffy Japanese-style pancakes infused with earthy matcha, perfect for those seeking a light meal with a dessert-like touch.
    Hot Tea / Matcha: Pair your favorite wagashi with a pot of freshly brewed sencha or a bowl of whisked Uji matcha for a refined Kyoto tea experience.

Ordering Tips

  • First-time visitors can’t go wrong with the Hana Tenshin Platter—a beautifully arranged selection that lets you sample a variety of wagashi flavors and textures in one set.
  • In summer, cool down with the kakigori (Japanese shaved ice) menu for a refreshing taste of Kyoto’s traditional tea-house style treats.
  • In winter, warm up with a comforting bowl of zenzai or enjoy the chewy delight of freshly grilled mitarashi dango.
  • Visiting with friends? Order several different desserts to share—it’s the best way to compare flavors and find your favorite.

Note: Menu offerings change with the seasons. Be sure to ask about daily specials and limited-time items for delightful surprises.


Amato Chaya Umezono – Sanjō Teramachi Branch | Shop Information


Final Thoughts – More Than Dessert, a Moment to Pause

Judged purely by portion size and price, Umezono’s kakigori (shaved ice) may not seem like the most cost-effective choice. In other parts of Asia—such as Taiwan—you can find towering shaved ice piled high with toppings for under $3 USD. In Bangkok, at After You Dessert Café, an elaborate snow ice layered with hidden toppings costs around $6–$7 USD.

By comparison, Umezono’s portion is modest, adorned with just a few elements—brown sugar syrup, shiratama, and warabi mochi. Yet the beauty lies in the details: the brown sugar syrup is rich without being cloying, the shiratama dumplings are tender yet satisfyingly chewy, and the warabi mochi is so delicately soft it feels like the lobe of an ear. Every texture in the bowl is intentional, creating a quiet harmony.

This is not the kind of café you’ll drop by every day—the price point and serene atmosphere make it a destination for special moments. And that’s precisely its charm. Umezono is like pressing a pause button in the middle of a busy day: a place to slow down, breathe, and truly savor. Here, dessert is more than just something sweet—it’s a small ritual of Kyoto life, imbued with the gentle feeling of being cared for.