Life in the historic city of Kyoto tends to move at a gentle pace. Grocery runs to the neighborhood market, biking along the Kamogawa River, and visits to favorite diners and wagashi shops (traditional Japanese sweets) create a quiet rhythm of everyday living.
Last summer was as hot as ever. With no access to my usual refreshing desserts like grass jelly or aiyu jelly (a citrusy jelly made from fig seeds), I suddenly recalled the Natsukantou from Oimatsu—a traditional Japanese summer dessert whose name poetically means “summer citrus sweet,” made by hollowing out an orange and filling it with delicate citrus jelly. I'd always been curious about its taste, so I headed to the Daimaru Kyoto department store and picked one up at the Oimatsu counter. At the time, I didn't give it much thought—just that it looked stunning, wasn't exactly cheap, but I was genuinely excited to try it.
When I got home and sliced it open, the very first bite was surprisingly fresh and delicate. As I continued eating, I grew more curious: What exactly is this made from? Who created it? A quick search later, I discovered that this beautiful dessert called Natsukantou actually carries quite a story.
What Is Natsukantou? A Citrus Shell Hiding a Cool Summer Surprise
Natsukantou is a summer-exclusive Japanese sweet created by Oimatsu during Japan’s Taisho era (1912–1926). It originated from the idea of extending the flavor window of natsumikan, a type of citrus fruit known for its bold aroma but very short harvest period. Once temperatures rise, these oranges spoil quickly. The solution? Kyoto confectioners developed a way to preserve the juice using kanten (agar) and pour it back into the hollowed peel, where it sets into a cool jelly. The result is a perfect marriage of traditional technique and innovative spirit.
This wagashi looks just like a real natsumikan, complete with a handwritten label on top. Unwrapping it feels almost ceremonial—like peeling a fresh fruit by hand. Inside is a translucent jelly made from agar. The first bite delivers a gentle citrus tang—not sharp, but delicately fragrant. Then comes a hint of sweetness, followed by a subtle bitterness that lingers like yuzu peel—a clean, refreshing finish that adds complexity. It’s not a flavor for everyone, but if you prefer natural, non-cloying desserts, you’ll likely love this.
The citrus fruit known as natsumikan (a type of Japanese summer orange) has been cultivated in Japan since the Edo period (1603–1868). Known for its tart flavor, it was traditionally used for pickling, seasoning, or in confections, rather than eaten fresh. Turning it into an elegant wagashi is a testament to the creativity of Kyoto’s artisan confectioners.
Notably, Oimatsu doesn’t use the more common amanatsu (a sweeter, modern hybrid), but instead selects the original strain of natsumikan—which is more tart and has a subtle bitterness. These are sourced from contract farmers in Hagi, a historic castle town in Yamaguchi Prefecture, western Japan, and Wakayama, a well-known citrus-growing region along the southwestern coast of Honshu. Each orange is carefully hollowed out, juiced, strained, then mixed with agar and sugar before being poured back into the peel and allowed to set. Entirely handmade and with limited harvests, these seasonal sweets are only available in spring and summer. Miss the season, and you’ll have to wait until next year.
The Soul of Natsukantou: Kanten Craftsmanship and Tea Ceremony Culture
Unlike Western jellies that typically use gelatin, Japanese wagashi traditionally use kanten (agar), a plant-based gelling agent. Not only is it suitable for Buddhist dietary practices, but it has also been widely used in Kyoto since the Edo period, forming a key part of Kyoto's wagashi heritage. Oimatsu’s skillful use of agar results in a jelly that’s crystal-clear, light, and smooth—not sticky at all. Compared to pectin-based jellies, it feels cooler and more refreshing—perfect for hot early summer days.
This refined flavor profile also pairs beautifully with Japanese teas. Whether it’s matcha, sencha, or cold-brewed tea, Natsukantou harmonizes effortlessly. It’s frequently featured in tea ceremony settings as a seasonal wagashi—one bite of jelly followed by a sip of tea. This balance serves as a classic お茶請け (a sweet meant to accompany tea), with its subtle citrus notes working to 引き立てる or enhance the tea’s flavor.
Visually, the dessert is stunning—its jelly glows faintly under sunlight, encased in a real orange shell. It’s no exaggeration to call it a “jewel of wagashi.” The name reflects not just its elegant appearance, but the rarity and artisan value it embodies.
Each Natsukantou is meticulously crafted by hand—from selecting heirloom natsumikan from contract farmers in Hagi, to juicing, straining, blending with agar, pouring back into the peel, and chilling to set. The process requires not just culinary skill, but also attention to timing and fine detail. With such limited production, it’s no wonder that each year’s release becomes one of Kyoto’s must-try and must-buy souvenirs. Miss it, and you'll have to wait another year.
Thanks to its exquisite taste and visual appeal, Natsukantou frequently appears in NHK features, gourmet magazines, and Kyoto travel guides as a “dream wagashi.” In Japan’s seasonally-driven culture, some fans even treat it as a collectible edible artwork, buying limited batches each year and storing them, packaging intact, in cold storage. For these collectors, the craftsmanship isn't just about the taste—but in the texture of the peel, the handwritten label, and the care behind each detail. This quiet reverence for food has even been highlighted in documentaries as an example of Japan’s aesthetic approach to eating.
Due to its short shelf life and delicate nature, Natsukantou is rarely exported. Only the occasional high-end Japanese sweet shop or overseas showcase might feature it, often as a visual display piece rather than for sale—drawing lines of dessert lovers eager to snap photos. Its rarity transforms it into more than just a dessert—it’s an immersive ritual. With each bite, you’re not only tasting summer in Kyoto, but also experiencing a moment of refined seasonal beauty shaped by generations of artisans.
About Oimatsu｜More Than a Century-Old Wagashi Institution
Founded: Established in 1908 (Meiji 41), Oimatsu’s flagship store is located in Kamishichiken, Kyoto’s oldest geisha district, near the iconic Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, an area steeped in tea house and geiko culture.
Imperial Confectioner: Former purveyor to Kyoto’s noble families such as the Kujō and Reizei households; Oimatsu was also chosen to provide wagashi for the Showa Emperor’s enthronement banquet.
Philosophy: Wagashi is viewed as a cultural bridge between people—celebrating the seasons, rituals, and the art of gift-giving.
Tradition & Innovation: While preserving classics like Natsukantou, Oimatsu continues to develop modern, creative wagashi for contemporary tastes.
Tea Room & Experiences: The Arashiyama flagship features a tea room overlooking a Japanese garden and occasionally hosts wagashi-making workshops.
Farm Partnerships: The natsumikan used in Natsukantou are grown by contract farmers in Hagi (Yamaguchi) and Wakayama, preserving the fruit’s original flavor lineage.
Current Head: Fourth-generation owner Mr. Tatsu Ota is both a tea master and cultural ambassador, active at Yufusaikōdōkan promoting tea culture and scholarship.
Oimatsu’s Natsukantou isn’t flashy or overly sweet—it wins you over with its exquisite balance of tartness, sweetness, and a subtle bitterness. Using the citrus peel as a natural vessel is both clever and aromatic, preserving the essence of the fruit. Meanwhile, the agar jelly offers a cooling texture that captures the refreshing spirit of summer. And that hint of lingering bitterness at the end? It’s the finishing touch that makes this dessert quietly unforgettable.
In addition to its spring–summer exclusive Natsukantou, Oimatsu also occasionally releases other seasonal sweets made with whole fruit filled with agar jelly. One example is Bankantou, typically available from late summer to early fall. The name Bankantou (literally “late citrus sweet”) reflects its seasonal timing and ingredients—it’s made with Kawachi bankan, a type of Japanese citrus known for its bright flavor and low acidity—also referred to as Kawachi yuzu or Hyuganatsu in regional varieties. These are all related varieties of Japanese citrus, often likened to a cross between oranges and grapefruits.
With a milder sweetness and a soft, grapefruit-like aroma, Bankantou is ideal for those who prefer mellow, less tart fruit flavors. While some may find it less distinctive than Natsukantou (which uses earlier-season natsumikan), it remains a charming and limited-edition option for the season.
Both Natsukantou and Bankantou are made using the same method: the fruit is hollowed out, filled with freshly mixed agar jelly, and cooled back into its natural shell. These artisanal desserts are handcrafted in small batches and are only available for a limited time. Here’s a quick comparison:
| Item | Market Reputation | Experience |
|---|---|---|
| Natsukantou | Extremely popular; a refined balance of tart and sweet, sophisticated flavor, limited and rare | A seasonal must-buy; sells out quickly each year |
| Bankantou | Moderately popular; mild and refreshing, grapefruit-like, bittersweet finish | Great for those sensitive to acidity or seeking something new |
Oimatsu’s seasonal fruit wagashi lineup varies yearly, depending on that year’s harvest and climate conditions. You might encounter new limited-edition items like Sanjin Souka, adding an element of surprise each season. So even if you miss Natsukantou in spring and summer, there's always something to look forward to in the next release.
Where to Buy｜Quick Guide to Getting Oimatsu’s Natsukantou
☞ Availability: From early April to mid-summer (typically June to August), depending on the citrus season.
☞ Storage: Keep refrigerated. Unopened, it lasts about 4–7 days. Once opened, enjoy as soon as possible (you likely won’t want to wait).
☞ How to Buy: Available in-store at Oimatsu’s counters. Due to limited stock, advance reservations are recommended during peak season.
Pro Tip: The peel easily absorbs odors—store it in a sealed bag and avoid placing it next to strong-smelling foods. When taking it on the go, wrap it with plastic wrap for added protection.
📍Retail Locations & Highlights
| Store | Address | Details |
|---|---|---|
| Arashiyama Flagship | Kyoto-shi, Ukyo-ku, Saga Tenryuji Susukinobabacho 20 | Exclusive to this store; features scenic views and a traditional Japanese garden with seating |
| Kitano Main Store | Kyoto-shi, Kamigyo-ku, Imadegawa-dori Goshonishi-iru, Shake Nagayacho 675-2 | Close to Kitano Tenmangu Shrine; perfect for combining wagashi shopping with sightseeing |
| Daimaru Kyoto | Kyoto-shi, Shimogyo-ku, Shijo-dori Takakura Nishi-iru, Tachiuri Nishimachi 79 | Convenient downtown location; limited quantities available |
| Seasonal Department Store Counters | Takashimaya, Isetan, etc. — check Oimatsu’s website for current locations | Shops may change yearly—refer to official announcements |
How to Enjoy Oimatsu’s Natsukantou
Chill it overnight: Store in the refrigerator the night before for a cooler, more fragrant experience.
Slicing: Cut it crosswise like a grapefruit, then divide into small wedges. The peel doubles as a natural serving bowl—perfect for photos.
Pair with tea: Matcha, sencha, or cold-brewed green tea complement it beautifully. For a twist, try adding a pinch of salt or a few drops of sake.
Savor slowly: Let it melt on your tongue to appreciate the nuanced bittersweet finish.
Even better shared: Slice it up and share with friends—it’s the kind of treat that creates sweet memories together.
Some fans even experiment with a splash of plum wine or serve it alongside shio daifuku (salted mochi), creating a unique balance of sweet and savory.
One Dessert That Captures Kyoto’s Season and Soul
If you usually shy away from overly sweet wagashi, Natsukantou might surprise you. It’s not flashy, but its flavor is clean, refined, and quietly unforgettable.
If you happen to visit Kyoto between spring and summer, and find yourself near Daimaru Kyoto or Arashiyama, we highly recommend picking one up from Oimatsu to enjoy back at your hotel with a friend or travel companion. It’s the kind of dessert that becomes a cherished memory—leaving you smiling, satisfied, and appreciating the seasonal beauty of Japanese confectionery.