Anthony Bourdain once said, "You learn a lot about someone when you share a meal together." Indeed, to truly know a city, you don't need to tick off every tourist landmark—simply eat. Food offers a genuine snapshot of everyday life; a city's authentic flavors often aren't found in guidebooks but rather in the humble snacks locals have cherished for generations.
In Kyoto, there’s no shortage of these humble bites, and one of the most beloved is the Aburi Mochi at Imamiya Shrine. This unassuming little treat has remarkably endured from the Heian and Edo periods right up to today — its taste almost unchanged, simple yet captivating.
What is Aburi Mochi? Why Is Imamiya Shrine a Legendary Sweets Spot?
Aburi Mochi is a humble local delicacy: thumb-sized rice cakes, hand-shaped and skewered with bamboo sticks, then grilled over charcoal until lightly charred before being brushed with a sweet-salty white miso glaze. The magic truly lies in that subtle char and the rich depth of the fermented miso flavor—a sweet yet savory combination that's utterly addictive.
Imamiya Shrine stands as the spiritual home of Aburi Mochi. Tucked away in northern Kyoto, its east gate opens onto a narrow lane where two historic shops have kept their charcoal fires burning for centuries, continuously filling the air with the irresistible aroma of grilled mochi.
Comparing Two Centuries-Old Shops: Ichiwa vs Kazariya
| Shop Name | Founded | Highlights |
|---|---|---|
| Ichiwa (一文字屋和輔) | Year 1000 (over 1,000 years old) | One of Japan’s oldest surviving sweets shops, serving only Aburi Mochi for a millennium. |
| Kazariya (本家 根元 かざりや) | Founded 1637 (approx. 400 years old) | Started in the early Edo period, also specializes in Aburi Mochi; located just across the alley from Ichiwa, with a cozy, neighborhood vibe. |
The two shops face each other across a narrow lane — a daily ritual of twin charcoal grills and drifting mochi smoke. This tradition is one of Kyoto’s most charming edible “rituals.”
Ichiwa is said to have served Aburi Mochi since the year 1000, making it one of Japan’s oldest confectionery shops. Through wars and plagues, they stuck to grilling mochi on bamboo skewers beside the shrine, believed to ward off evil and bring good health. Inside, you’ll still see the original well and the women who’ve kept this craft alive for generations — one house rule here: the women run the shop, a legacy of female stewardship that gives Ichiwa its special, reverent vibe.
Across the lane, Kazariya dates back “only” 400 years but shares the same focus: just Aburi Mochi, with a slightly sweeter glaze than Ichiwa’s. This shop, too, is women-led. Its open-front area lets you sit on a low bench, watching the mochi being grilled over crackling coals. Step deeper inside and you’ll find a small tatami room and garden seating, perfect for a quiet snack break.
Seeing these two teahouses side by side is a living example of Japan’s “二軒茶屋” culture — twin teahouses along shrine paths that originated in the mid-Edo period to give worshippers a place to rest. Imamiya Shrine’s alley is one of the rare surviving spots where this tradition lives on. If your schedule allows, we highly recommend trying both shops to taste the difference.
The History of Aburi Mochi
Though bite-sized, Aburi Mochi has a big story. Since the Heian era, these rice cakes were offered at Imamiya Shrine to ward off plagues and pray for good health. The round white mochi symbolizes a sacred mirror, and the bamboo skewer — called a “Saikuji” (sacred skewer) — ties the offering to the divine. Grilling the mochi over charcoal was also believed to purify and protect. For centuries, locals have said, "Eat Aburi Mochi and you won’t get sick next year." What started as a ritual offering became a beloved snack — Kyoto’s version of a shrine-front sweet.
What is a Shrine-Front Sweet (門前菓子)?
Shrine-front sweets are Japanese confections sold near temples and shrines, originally made as offerings but later enjoyed by visitors as treats or souvenirs of protection and good fortune. In Kyoto, this tradition is strong — Imamiya Shrine’s Aburi Mochi, Kiyomizu Temple’s senbei crackers, and Kitano Tenmangu’s Chogoromo Mochi are just a few famous examples. Each snack carries the history and blessings of its shrine with every bite.
It’s amazing to think that such a tiny snack has survived for a thousand years, from sacred ritual to daily local comfort food — a true taste of Kyoto’s living history.
Our Visit: Tasting Kazariya’s Aburi Mochi
One sunny afternoon, we biked down Kitaoji Street, crossed the Kitaoji Bridge, turned onto Kamo Street, then slipped into Imamiya Road — the shrine’s name hints you’re close.
We first tried to visit the legendary Ichiwa, but the line was packed with tourists, so we pivoted across the lane to Kazariya. Its crowd was mostly locals, and the staff was so friendly — they invited us to sit right out front, on low benches where you can watch the women grill the mochi over the glowing coals. Warm sun, cool air, the smell of miso and rice — perfect.
Hot tea arrived first, then the masters behind the grill deftly turned each skewer. It’s mesmerizing to watch — they didn’t mind photos at all. Soon, our set of 11 Aburi Mochi skewers landed on our tray. The miso glaze was rich, the edges just crisp, the mochi itself bouncy and chewy with that sweet-salty hit — heaven with a sip of tea.
Why 11 skewers? In Japan, odd numbers are seen as lucky — they can’t be evenly divided, symbolizing things that stay whole and connected. Eleven also implies longevity and good health. Locals say one skewer is for the gods — sharing your fortune with others, then receiving it back. That makes these 11 Aburi Mochi the perfect bite-sized blessing.
If your schedule and appetite allow, try Ichiwa too — tasting both is the best way to compare Kyoto’s centuries-old flavors!
📍 Access & Hours: How to Visit Imamiya Shrine for Aburi Mochi
- Location: Imamiya Shrine, Murasakino, Kita Ward, Kyoto — the shops are just outside the east gate.
- How to Get There: Take the Kyoto City Bus to the “Imamiya Shrine-mae” stop — about a 3-minute walk.
- Opening Hours:
- Ichiwa: 10:00–17:00, closed Wednesdays
- Kazariya: 10:00–17:00, closed Wednesdays (may adjust on holidays)
- Price: 11 skewers with tea — ¥600 (as of 2025)
Why You Should Try Kyoto’s Aburi Mochi At Least Once
Kyoto isn’t just temples and teahouses — sometimes the most memorable tastes hide down a tiny alley. Aburi Mochi turns rice, charcoal, and miso into a little bite of Kyoto’s living tradition, passed from generation to generation. So next time you visit, add Imamiya Shrine to your list — say your prayers, then sit down to eat your 11 skewers. Let Kyoto’s flavor unfold, one sweet-salty bite at a time.