Caramel Loafing

Francois Cafe (Salon de thé FRANCOIS) is one of the most iconic old-school Kyoto cafés, perfect for a slow afternoon with pear tart and pudding. Opened in 1934 and tucked into a quiet alley near Shijo Kawaramachi, it's Japan’s first café designated a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property. Known for its Italian baroque interior and classic Showa-era salon vibe, it was once a secret gathering spot for Kyoto’s artists and thinkers.
Step inside and you’ll find red velvet chairs, classical music, a smiling Mona Lisa on the wall, and a vintage map of Paris—all quietly whispering the city’s past. The coffee menu includes traditional black coffee and indulgent Vienna coffee with whipped cream. For sweets, don’t miss their signature pear tart and house-made custard pudding. At Francois Cafe, there’s no Wi-Fi—but that’s exactly why it’s the perfect place to do nothing. Skip it, and you just might find yourself missing it later.
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Gospel Cafe in Sakyo Ward, Kyoto is a hidden cafe near the Philosopher’s Path that’s earned a spot on the Tabelog Top 100. Designed by American missionary architect William Merrell Vories, this white ivy-clad house feels like a European fairytale cottage. Inside, you’ll find jazz vinyl playing and century-old English antiques, with handmade desserts and coffee that warm the soul.
Many travelers come to Kyoto for temples and shrines, but if you’re looking for a spot to truly slow down and soak up the local pace, Gospel is worth a visit. Enjoy freshly baked scones, seasonal tarts, hand-drip coffee, and herbal teas. In spring, the ivy turns bright green; in fall, the maples blaze red; in winter, the fireplace glows—giving you one more reason to pause and daydream through the seasons.
It may not be a big tourist photo spot, but for many, it’s the perfect little place to rest on a Kyoto stroll. Try Gospel Cafe—and you just might find yourself wanting to come back again. ...full story ››

Kyoto’s Imamiya Shrine is home to Aburi Mochi, a beloved traditional Japanese sweet that locals have enjoyed for over a thousand years. Known for its simple yet deep flavors, this charcoal-grilled rice cake is skewered, lightly charred, and brushed with sweet white miso. Just outside the shrine’s east gate, two historic shops — Ichiwa and Kazariya — keep this unique ritual alive. Ichiwa, dating back to 1000 AD, is Japan’s oldest surviving sweet shop, while Kazariya has served visitors for over 400 years. Their rival charcoal grills fill the lane with the comforting aroma of toasted mochi, representing Kyoto’s living food heritage. Aburi Mochi’s roots trace back to shrine offerings for health and protection, and today, eating its iconic 11 skewers still carries lucky symbolism. A bite of Aburi Mochi is more than a snack — it’s a taste of Kyoto’s everyday history, best enjoyed with hot tea and the warm hospitality of these family-run teahouses. For any Kyoto visit, a stop at Imamiya Shrine for Aburi Mochi is a must. ...full story ››

After moving to Kyoto, I quickly realized Japan’s national holidays are far more complex than I’d ever imagined. Many of them don’t even sound like days off—think Mountain Day, Marine Day, or Respect for the Aged Day. On top of that, the entire rhythm of the city shifts: transportation schedules change, shops may close, and crowds can swell to weekend levels. With unique systems like “Happy Monday,” “sandwich holidays,” and “make-up holidays” (Furikae Kyujitsu), even an ordinary-looking date can quietly trigger holiday timetables, fewer buses, or shuttered cafés. If you’re planning a trip to Japan, this “National Holiday Guide” is one to bookmark!
In this roundup, we cover not just Japan’s 16 official national holidays but also the extra-long breaks everyone looks forward to—like Golden Week, Obon, and the New Year holidays. And it doesn’t stop there: we’ve included uniquely Japanese days that aren’t days off but shape the local vibe anyway, like Setsubun, Valentine’s Day, Girl’s Day, and the beloved “Eel Day.” All seen through the eyes of someone living here—so you can really understand how these calendar dates play out on the ground.
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If you’re tired of the crowds that come with Kyoto’s cherry blossom season, consider a short escape to Omihachiman — a historic canal town on the southeast side of Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture, just an hour from Kyoto. Even at peak bloom, you’ll find far fewer tourists here, so you can actually stroll, breathe, and enjoy the scenery at your own pace. Popular sakura spots like Arashiyama and Kiyomizu-dera may be packed with phones and heads in every photo, but Omihachiman gives you the space to soak it all in. If you have more time, this charming town has plenty to explore: visit Himure Hachimangu Shrine, take the ropeway up Mount Hachiman for sweeping city views, or stop by the stunning architecture of La Collina Omihachiman. Last time we only stayed half a day, but once I looked it up back home, I realized how much more there is to see — it’s perfect for a slow day trip any time of year, not just sakura season. So if you’re looking for a scenic, peaceful spot for a spring stroll, I hope this guide helps you plan your trip with ease. ...full story ››

Discover Nagoya: Japan's Underrated Gem. Often unfairly labeled as "Japan's most boring city," Nagoya, Japan's third-largest metropolitan area, is actually a hidden gem for curious travelers. Explore its unique charm, savor distinctive Nagoya food, and enjoy a relaxed pace. We spent four days and three nights in late April, discovering its laid-back vibe, strolling through city sights, and sampling incredible local eats. Our trip, centered near Sakae Station, was full of unexpected surprises, making it truly memorable.
This article shares our actual itinerary, complete with favorite restaurants, must-see sights, and practical tips. It's a relaxed, easy-to-follow guide designed to help you plan your first Nagoya visit and inspire your own unforgettable adventure. ...full story ››

Our first choice for a long stay abroad was actually Bangkok, Thailand. Thailand has a special retirement visa for anyone over 50, so we traveled to Bangkok every year to explore the idea—I even took Thai classes for six months! But we weren’t old enough to apply yet, so we just kept waiting… until the pandemic paused everything. While waiting, we discovered Portugal’s “D7 Passive Income Visa,” which has no age limit and a low entry bar. Lisbon’s great weather and pastries (we’re bakers!) made us tempted to switch plans. We found a Taiwanese legal assistant in Lisbon, got the paperwork, and started learning Portuguese to prepare for Europe. But the pandemic froze Portugal’s D7 process too, so we were stuck waiting again. In the end, our language prep was totally off: we learned Thai and Portuguese—but never Japanese—and somehow ended up starting a new life in Japan! ...full story ››

If you’ve visited Kyoto before, plan a Mount Hiei half-day trip this time — ride the Hiei-zan cable car, soak up panoramic views of Lake Biwa, and discover Kyoto’s green backyard escape. Straddling Kyoto and Shiga, Mount Hiei has been a sacred place for Japanese Buddhism for centuries. Deep in its forests lies Enryaku-ji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and birthplace of the Tendai sect. No car or hiking gear needed — just hop on a train, transfer to the cable car, and reach the summit in under an hour. From the top, gaze across Lake Biwa and enjoy 360-degree views of Kyoto and Shiga. Feel the mountain breeze, stroll shaded trails, and sip coffee at a mountaintop café. This side of Kyoto is waiting for you — have you experienced it yet? ...full story ››