Caramel Loafing

Looking for the ultimate Kyoto summer wagashi? Natsukantou, a seasonal wagashi from the century-old confectioner Oimatsu, is a must-try Japanese dessert available only from April through the summer months. This elegant treat features an entire natsumikan orange, hollowed out and filled with a delicate jelly made from its own juice and agar. Light, citrusy, subtly bitter, and beautifully layered in flavor, it’s one of Kyoto’s most iconic “grown-up” wagashi.
In this article, I share my firsthand experience buying and tasting it at the Daimaru Kyoto department store, along with practical insights into its background, craftsmanship, storage tips, and where to buy it—whether at Oimatsu’s Arashiyama flagship, the Kitano main store, or Daimaru Kyoto.
You’ll also find slicing suggestions, ideal tea pairings, and travel-friendly advice to help you seek out and savor this unforgettable summer sweet. If you’re planning a summer trip to Kyoto and searching for must-try wagashi or a thoughtful seasonal gift, Natsukantou deserves a place on your itinerary. ...full story ››

Francois Cafe Kyoto (Salon de thé FRANCOIS) is one of the city’s most iconic old-school cafés, known for pear tart, custard pudding, and unhurried afternoons. Opened in 1934 and tucked into a quiet alley near Shijo Kawaramachi, it became Japan’s first café designated as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property. Known for its Italian Baroque-style interior and a classic Showa-era salon atmosphere, it was once a discreet gathering place for Kyoto’s artists and thinkers.
Step inside and you’ll find red velvet chairs, classical music, a smiling Mona Lisa on the wall, and a vintage map of Paris—details that quietly whisper the city’s past. The coffee menu includes traditional black coffee, along with indulgent Vienna coffee topped with whipped cream. For sweets, don’t miss their signature pear tart and house-made custard pudding. At Francois Cafe, there’s no Wi-Fi—but that’s exactly why it’s the perfect place to do nothing. Skip it, and you may find yourself thinking about it later.
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Gospel Cafe in Sakyo Ward, Kyoto is a hidden café near the Philosopher’s Path that has earned a place on the Tabelog Top 100. Designed by American missionary architect William Merrell Vories, this white, ivy-clad house feels like a European fairytale cottage tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood. Inside, jazz vinyl fills the air alongside century-old English antiques, while handmade desserts and carefully brewed coffee offer a sense of calm that lingers long after you leave.
Many travelers come to Kyoto for temples and shrines, but if you’re looking for a place to truly slow down and experience the city’s quieter rhythm, Gospel is well worth a visit. Expect freshly baked scones, seasonal tarts, hand-drip coffee, and house-blended herbal teas. In spring, the ivy turns a vivid green; in autumn, nearby maples glow red; and in winter, the fireplace casts a gentle warmth—each season offering its own reason to pause and daydream.
It may not be a headline-grabbing photo stop, but for many visitors, it becomes the perfect little place to rest during a Kyoto stroll. Visit Gospel Cafe, and you may find yourself quietly planning a return. ...full story ››

Aburi Mochi in Kyoto is a beloved 1,000-year-old sweet served at Imamiya Shrine, enjoyed by locals for centuries. Known for its simple yet deeply layered flavors, this charcoal-grilled rice cake is skewered, lightly charred, and brushed with sweet white miso. Just outside the shrine’s east gate, two historic shops — Ichiwa and Kazariya — continue this unique tradition. Ichiwa, founded in 1000 AD, is considered one of Japan’s oldest surviving confectionery shops, while Kazariya has welcomed visitors for over 400 years. Their charcoal grills face each other across the narrow lane, filling the air with the comforting aroma of toasted mochi — a living symbol of Kyoto’s food heritage. Aburi Mochi traces its origins to shrine offerings for health and protection, and the traditional set of 11 skewers still carries auspicious symbolism today. More than a snack, Aburi Mochi offers a taste of Kyoto’s everyday history, best enjoyed with hot tea and the warm hospitality of these long-standing family-run teahouses. For any visit to Kyoto, stopping at Imamiya Shrine for Aburi Mochi remains a must.
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Japan’s national holidays are far more complex than they first appear—something I quickly realized after moving to Kyoto. Many of them don’t even sound like official public holidays—think Mountain Day, Marine Day, or Respect for the Aged Day. On top of that, the entire rhythm of the city shifts: transportation schedules change, shops may close, and crowds can swell to feel like a busy weekend. With unique systems like the “Happy Monday” system, “sandwich holidays,” and make-up holidays (Furikae Kyūjitsu), even an ordinary-looking date can quietly trigger holiday timetables, fewer buses, or closed cafés. If you’re planning a trip to Japan, this national holiday guide is one you’ll want to bookmark.
In this guide, we cover not only Japan’s 16 official national holidays but also the extended breaks people look forward to—such as Golden Week, Obon, and the New Year period. We also explore uniquely Japanese observances that aren’t official days off but still shape the local atmosphere, including Setsubun, Valentine’s Day, Girl’s Day, and “Doyo no Ushi no Hi” (the traditional midsummer eel day). All seen through the eyes of someone living in Japan—so you can better understand how these calendar dates actually play out in everyday life.
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Omihachiman is a quieter alternative to Kyoto’s cherry blossom crowds — a historic canal town just an hour from Kyoto on the southeast side of Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture. Even at peak bloom, you’ll find far fewer tourists here, so you can stroll, breathe, and enjoy the scenery at your own pace. Popular sakura spots like Arashiyama and Kiyomizu-dera are often packed, with phones and crowds filling every frame, but Omihachiman gives you the space to truly take it all in. If you have more time, this charming town has plenty to explore: visit Himure Hachimangu Shrine, ride the Mt. Hachiman Ropeway for sweeping city views, or stop by the striking architecture of La Collina Omihachiman. Last time we only stayed half a day, but after researching it further, I realized how much more there is to see — it’s perfect for a slow day trip any time of year, not just sakura season. If you’re looking for a scenic and peaceful spring stroll, this guide will help you plan your trip with ease.
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Discover Nagoya, Japan’s underrated third-largest city and a surprising hidden gem for curious travelers. Often overlooked in favor of Tokyo or Kyoto, Nagoya offers a refreshing alternative with its relaxed pace, distinctive culture, and iconic Nagoya food. Explore its unique charm, savor local specialties, and experience a less-crowded side of Japan. During four days and three nights in late April, we explored its laid-back vibe, city landmarks, and standout local dishes while staying near Sakae Station. The trip was filled with unexpected discoveries and memorable moments.
This guide shares our real 4-day Nagoya itinerary, complete with favorite restaurants, must-see attractions, and practical travel tips—helping you plan your first Nagoya trip with confidence. ...full story ››

Before moving to Japan, we explored long-stay visa options in both Bangkok and Lisbon. Thailand offers a retirement visa for applicants over 50, so we traveled to Bangkok every year to evaluate the idea—I even studied Thai for six months. But we weren’t old enough to qualify yet, and then the pandemic paused everything. While waiting, we discovered Portugal’s D7 Passive Income Visa, known for its relatively accessible financial requirements and no age limit. Lisbon’s mild climate and strong pastry culture (we’re bakers) made us seriously consider Europe. We connected with a Taiwanese legal assistant in Lisbon, gathered the paperwork, and began learning Portuguese to prepare for a new life abroad. Then the pandemic froze Portugal’s D7 process as well. In the end, our preparation was completely misaligned: we learned Thai and Portuguese—yet somehow, we ended up starting a new chapter in Japan instead. ...full story ››

Planning a Mount Hiei half-day trip from Kyoto? Ride the Hiei-zan Cable Car, take in panoramic views of Lake Biwa, and discover Kyoto’s green backyard escape. Straddling Kyoto and Shiga, Mount Hiei has been a sacred place for Japanese Buddhism for centuries. Deep in its forests lies Enryaku-ji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and birthplace of the Tendai sect, one of the most influential schools of Japanese Buddhism. No car or hiking gear is needed — simply hop on a train, transfer to the cable car, and reach the summit in under an hour. From the summit, gaze across Japan’s largest freshwater lake and enjoy 360-degree views of Kyoto and Shiga. Feel the mountain breeze, stroll shaded trails, and sip coffee at a mountaintop café. This quieter side of Kyoto is waiting — have you experienced it yet? ...full story ››